Small update on FourPlay activity: In addition to the London gigs (at
Bartok on the 17th and 24th of June), we are going to Ireland for the week
directly after the 24th. On the 25th and 26th, Friday and Saturday, we're
playing at the Gaiety Theatre in Dublin. We're also playing in Galway and
Cork, with other possibilities in the pipeline, but no details yet.
Apparently BBC Radio Ulster (Northern Ireland) have been playing the
CD...
I was last seen in the Web Bar in Paris, sending the diary entry which
I hadn't been able to send the day before. That was Sunday the 23rd of
May. Having complained that noone was on ICQ, I promptly heard from Chris
as soon as I'd sent the message, and chatted for too long (considering
the cost of internet at the Web Bar was 40FF ($10) an hour...)
I walked home via the Rue des Rosiers, the main Jewish street in the
Marais, and had delicious shawarma in pita, from Le Roi du Falafel, opposite
Jo Goldenberg's.
The Rue des Rosiers on a Sunday night is something to see. I imagine it is something like a tiny bit of Jerusalem in Paris; the street is packed full of young Jewish kids, all the guys with their motorbikes, the girls flocking around them, all over the streets. Some foolhardy cars try to drive down the street, and have to wait for ages (of course since it's Paris they sit on their horns even when there's no point). It's utter chaos, but very fun and I felt quite at home ;)
Monday the 24th of May. Turned out to be. A.
I can hardly bring myself to say this.
A... public holiday.
Where do they find all these damn things in Europe? England has Bank
Holidays all over the place... not fair! So of course... the museums were
closed. Absurd.
I walked all the way up the Rue de Rivoli, past the Louvre, and found
W.H. Smith (English chain of bookstores) was open. Nothing much of interest
though.
So I walked home, moped a bit, and went on to the Web Bar (of course).
Got some email from people I hadn't heard much from for a while (hi Loz!)
[actually, on Saturday I was most excited to hear from Ginster, from whom
I hadn't heard for a very long time. Hearing from friends when one's half-way
across the world really is a great pleasure].
Then Dan Meijer rang. Dan's a FourPlay and Whitlams fan who has made
friends over the net, and happens to be in Europe at the same time. I met
him at Bastille shortly after. We still had most of the day to wander around,
so we started by going into the Marais to the Jewish quarter, which Dan
enjoyed.
From there we walked to Hotel de Ville and halfway across the Seine
to the Notre Dame. It was of course surrounded by tourists, beggars, and
portrait painters/drawers. A beautiful building nevertheless. We walked
around the Left Bank and found the famous English-language bookshop Shakespeare
& Company, which is a sprawling, strangely-organised second-hand and
antique bookstore. It was fun, but too expensive to buy anything. (And
yes, open on the public holiday, being English).
We walked along the left bank of the Seine, past the Musee D'Orsay
(closed), and then left to go down to the Hotel des Invalides. From there
we walked to the Eiffel Tower, stopping at the end of the boulevarde that
goes up to it to take some delightfully artistically composed photographs.
We were extremely disappointed to find that the Eiffel Tower is very very
brown. Rust coloured the whole way, not black as one would somehow expect.
Impressive nonetheless in a "but why would you?" kind of way. [But
I feel that way about cathedrals, churches and all that too. You know me.
Odd.]
From the Eiffel Tower we trudged all the way up to the Arch de Triomphe,
somehow getting past that pain barrier - even considering all the walking
I've been doing, this was the most in one go that I've done so far.
We watched a somewhat disappointing ceremony of relighting the "eternal
flame", and then went off to get orange juices at McDonalds. The girl behind
the counter brought a new (and entirely opposite) meaning to "fast food"...
And our feet were aching! *gripe *gripe*
Well we walked down the crowded and sadly rather commercial Champs
Elysee. We were going to just take the next tube station, when Peteypie
spies... a Virgin Megastore! And this is the first truly Mega- one I've
seen, more so even than London's one (Well in London I'm more interested
in all the amazing indie stores anyway).
The Tzigane (gypsy) section was unbelieveable, with every album by
the wonderful French gypsy/hot club/klezmer/etc group Bratsch, and other
groups I'd heard of but never seen a single CD of. The Israel/klezmer section
was rather impressive too (New York will be amazing for that I imagine).
They had this cool system where you take a CD up to a listening post
and scan the bar code in, and immediately it plays you the CD. Well almost.
Actually it's mono 30-second samples from the first 12 tracks. Not bad,
but somewhat frustrating. Clever use of technology though.
I got the latest Bratsch album, a double CD of a live performance recorded
in March this year. It is utterly brilliant and wonderful.
We then proceeded down the Champs Elysee to the Obelisk thing, where
we took the Metro back to the Jewish Quarter and had shawarma for dinner
(from the Roi du Falafel again...) It was great to have Dan's company,
especially on a public holiday when otherwise I would have gotten bored
and depressed.
On Tuesday the 25th I went back to the comics shop I went to on the
first day in Paris, and got the rare Dark Horse edition of "Immortality
Isn't Forever" by Eddie Campbell. This is the first two books of Eddie's
Bacchus series, about the Greek god having various bizarre adventures in
the modern world. Fun.
Then I decided to go to the Musee D'Orsay. This meant going south to
a station where I though I could take RER directly to Orsay. It turned
out I had to pay extra, so instead I turned around and went straight back
to Bastille, west along the Hotel de Ville etc line, and then south one
stop, and then walked two blocks to Musee D'Orsay.
The reason you need to know that is that when I reached the Museum...
no prizes for guessing... it was ON STRIKE! Grrrrrrrrrrrr. I walked to
the Louvre, and guess what? It's shut on Tuesdays.
So I went back to the hotel, and faced with nothing else to do, practised
the cello for a while. I listened to the Bratsch CD for the 3rd time, and
read the entire Bacchus book. Went to the Web Bar, corresponded with Danae
(a novelty) and various others, walked home listening to Bratsch.
Dinner? Couldn't possibly have been shawarma from Rue des Rosiers could
it? It's just about the only cheap food in Paris, and is in addition very
very yummy, especially with those pickled chilli peppers.
I should mention at this point that every day I also had for lunch the cute little baby matzos (the unleavened bread Jews have at passover, for those gentiles amongst us, ie sheets of table water cracker basically (*grin*)) and a delicious hunk of salami, purchased (and recharged a few times) from Jo Goldenberg's deli. Breakfast was not included at the hotel, so I had fresh croissants and orange juice. Somehow I managed to survive on this...
On Wednesday the 25th I walked to Louvre, which was still on strike.
By now I was fairly sure this was a long term thing. In fact, taking the
plane to Amsterdam today, Tim read in the paper that the French museums
are STILL on strike. It's the 5th of June guys, get with it!
I walked to the Rodin Museum, stopping to take in the lovely buildings
and streets on the way - I knew it at least was open. Before going in I
rang Chris Breach and had a lovely chat... Yep, that "voices from home"
thing doing the trick again.
The Rodin museum was great - spent quite a while looking at the sculptures
(including the Thinker, with whom I always empathise), and then sat in
the garden reading Greg Egan for an hour or two. The day had turned from
overcast into sunny and beautiful, so it was very relaxing.
I walked back to the hotel through the Left Bank, along a route I hadn't
taken before. Convinced myself I must be lost, but fortunately I was wrong
;)
Nothing much else of interest, except that in a wild moment of extravagance
I had a BAGUETTE with shawarma instead of pita from the Roi du Falafel.
It was even more delicious, although considerably more messy to eat.
Thursday the 27th of May was my last day in Paris. I went to confirm
that the Louvre was still on strike, and then found how to get into the
shopping complex underneath. This was preferable to walking in the Jardin
de Tuilleries (sp?) because it was rather hot again... There was a Virgin
Megastore there at which no listening facilities were provided at all (SHAME!)
I walked back to the hotel, listened to music, looked out the window and
went "wow" at all the buildings, read more, etc etc.
Went to Web Bar, not much email, walked home, listened to more music,
read more Greg Egan (who is an utter genius by the way, Australian hard
science fiction writer, the best in the world in my opinion). Tim rang,
which would have alleviated the boredom, and was lovely, but actually I
wasn't that bored - it was nice to just be in Paris and do nothing to speak
of.
The next morning, Friday the 28th, I woke early enough to pack, pay
for my shower (you have to pay for the showers? I mean honestly...), and
catch the metro followed by the RER to Charles de Gaulle airport. My big
backpack caused me some woe in the Paris Metro automatic gates system:
By the time I'd pushed the cello through and gotten myself through, the
gates closed on me, slowly squishing me (and not letting me push them back).
I had to awkwardly extricate myself from the backpack, which fell on
the other side of the gates, and then gratefully accept it back from the
guy behind me. Fortunately noone even gave me a second glance - it must
be business as usual in the Metro.
I got to Kirra & Danae's and Tim was already there, along with Kirra
and Richard Czeiger (old school friend of Tim's and friend of Kirra's).
After I managed to re-solidify myself, we went into Soho. I couldn't resist
the lure of Berwick St, where I had a great time in all the record stores,
and got a Gescom 12" I didn't yet have.
That evening Kirra & I met Danae at Guildhall and we saw the play
Danae has been production managing, "Attempts on Her Life" by Martin Crimp.
The play is extremely innovative, very funny and thought-provoking. Quite
possibly one of the "great" works of modern drama (written a couple of
years ago), and the production was very good indeed.
Afterwards, went to Butlers (the pub around the corner) and discussed
the play and other stuff with Danae for a while before going home. At home,
we all chatted until far too late, considering Tim & I had to be up
early the next morning.
The Next Morning. Saturday the 29th. FourPlay's first gig was this day,
at the Homelands Festival, in a big field outside of Winchester. Tim &
I had to catch the tube to Victoria to meet Lara who had booked a car,
and we then drove to the festival.
Homelands was a big techno festival, and it was rather odd for us to
be playing there, but the Mean Fiddler people (in particular Tania, our
main contact) had arranged a very eclectic and interesting Chill Out tent.
The first 45 minute set was alright but not very exciting, but the second
(probably a worse set, but still...) went off rather well - we were cheered
and called back for an encore, and the organisers were very impressed.
In between the sets, I went to the drum'n'bass tent. I got there at
the end of Optical's set, after which Ed Rush DJed for two hours straight.
I was in there dancing away to the amazing dark jungle for about 2 1/2
hours in total, after which I was completely exhausted and my ears were
in catatonic shock ;)
After the festival, we decided for some reason to drive half an hour in the wrong direction to Stonehenge. Of course at that time of night it was closed, but we stood at the fence and ooh and ahhed, talked to the nice security guard, and enjoyed the presence of the full moon.
Sunday the 30th was thus a very late wake up. We all went off to the Spitalfields Market, where we met Richard's new (and sadly very temporary) belle, a lovely girl from Slovenia, who was going home the next day... We had a great time at the markets, went home and played card games, and then played celebrity head until all hours. Fun, especially giving Danae Margaret Thatcher and getting Monica Lewinsky in return the next round.
Monday the 31st of May was, of course, a Bank Holiday. So I stayed around,
since Kirra and Danae had no college. We didn't do much; eventually I packed
and Richard & I took the 7pm train to Edinburgh.
Somewhere in between Rotherhithe and Barbican stations (we went to
the Barbican briefly to say goodbye to K&D) I managed to mislay my
duffel coat. A *very sad* state of affairs indeed. I shall write to the
Underground lost property department in the hopes someone was honest...
you never know.
We arrived in Edinburgh around midnight and stayed at the Princes St
Backpackers, very conveniently located, with a lovely atmosphere. As with
most such places, it was overrun with Australians, with New Zealanders
and South Africans as runners up.
On Tuesday the 1st of June we explored Edinburgh. It's a very beautiful
city, with amazing architecture. I found Forbidden Planet, an ok comics
shop with some great 50p bargains, and got directions from there to Avalanche,
a great CD/record store ;)
I got the new Terry Pratchett book, co-written with Ian Stewart and
Jack Cohen, in which they illuminate real-world science through the humour
and illogic of the Discworld. It hadn't officially been released yet, so
I was quite proud, the hardcover price notwithstanding.
We also went to the National Gallery of Scotland (YES! A gallery!!!!)
which has a very impressive collection from all over the world, and some
fantastic Scottish art works as well.
That evening, we went to a gig at La Belle Angelle, the reason I was
going to Edinburgh at that particular time. The first act were Matmos,
an experimental electronic group from the USA, in my opinion probably the
most exciting and innovative people working in the field at the moment.
Their gig showed just how much one can do with electronic music in a live
context, including the use of a skin electricity measuring device at one
point, being slowly run all over the arms and face of one of the members,
producing weird geiger counter type noises while he continued to manipulate
those and other sounds on his computer and sampler all the while.
Following Matmos was Pan American, one member of US experimental ambient
"post rock" group Labradford, who were curating the "Festival of Drifting"
that this gig was part of. He played ambient, clicky, beautiful soundscapes
for about an hour - I shall have to seek out his album.
Last were the Durutti Column, whom I knew nothing about; they played
rather... nice music, but it didn't do much for us and we left after about
5 songs. They are in fact rather well-known and will bear looking into
at some stage.
Other than seeing Matmos live, the highlight of the night was that
everyone got, at the door, an exclusive Festival of Drifting mix CD, made
by Robin Guthrie of the Cocteau Twins. "Drifting" refers to the process
that various of artists have been undergoing, of drifting away from mainstream
ideas about what music is, what pop music, techno music, classical music,
etc is. The artists featured had all drifted in some way or another. And
interesting concept.
[Editorial note: Mute Records' Blast First sub-label are now selling
the last of these CDs for some outrageous price - I've seen them in New
York for about US$20. So - an even better bargain!]
On Wednesday morning (2nd of June) I was sitting in the dining room
having breakfast when a girl said "You wouldn't be Peter Hollo would you?"
It turned out to be Sally Piper, daughter of Colin Piper, who plays percussion
in Synergy, conducts UNSW Uni Orchestra, and has known me for years. I
knew Sally at the 1993 and 1994 National Music Camps, when she was about
15. It was bizarre to see her in Edinburgh, and amazing she recognised
me.
It was raining, so I bought an umbrella (having lost my previous one
on the Paris Metro). This despite Richard's exhortations that "nobody in
Britain uses an umbrella". I went back to Avalanche and after a long time
listening to stuff got Matmos's new EP "The West". I have it on 12" but
the CD version has an extra track, and sounds better...
We then walked down eventually to an amazing science fiction etc bookshop
called "TransReal Fiction". I spent ages in there - a fantastic collection
of stuff. They had the very very new Neal Stephenson book "Cryptonomicon",
which I bought despite its expense - it's a hardcover imported from America,
but won't be released in paperback for at least a year, and will be very
good reading I'm sure.
We then walked to Edinburgh Castle, bought our expensive entry tickets
and went in. Well I had to see one castle I suppose on the trip, and this
one was certainly a good choice. Some of the exhibits and things were a
little naff and tedious, but the castle itself is very cool, and the view
of the city is superb.
Walking back down from the castle Richard was forced to eat his words
and seek shelter under my umbrella in the increasing rain [He'd been telling
me all day that only tourists carry umbrellas in Britain]. We went back
to the hostel and watched a silly video with Danny DeVito, followed by
Hunt For Red October - hilarious listening to Sean Connery playing a Russian
submarine captain with a Scottish accent whilst I was in Scotland.
Tim arrived from Loch Ness (yep! He saw a "Hairrry Coo", so he keeps
telling us. This being a very long haired bull...) with Willo, who promptly
got on an overnight coach to London, poor fing. We proceeded to watch Patriot
Games in the video room... I stayed up listening to music in the living
room afterwards, and felt rather glum about not having my cello - I hate
not being able to make music :(
On Thursday the 3rd we walked around Edinburgh a little more, and went
to the Oz Bar (I think it's called) for lunch. There we had the best meat
we'd eaten since leaving Australia... Nothing like a good ol' Aussie barbie!
Tim & I took the 2pm train back to London, went back to Kirra's
house, had dinner, etc etc. And of course chatted with Kirra & Danae
when they got home. Lovely to be with them, and lovely to have Tim there
too. Richard's company had been a pleasure in Edinburgh too; we managed
to explore and do our own thing whilst staying together.
I rather wisely decided to just take an overnight bag to Amsterdam
;)
Today, Friday the 4th, we awoke at 5:45am in order to take a cab at
6:15 to get to Heathrow at 7am to pick up our tickets and catch the 8:45
plane to Amsterdam. It's great to be back here; I really love this place.
The people are delightful, there's so much going on, it's relaxed and comfortable.
We are here because next year a two-week event is being held in Amsterdam
to showcase Australian music, dance, theatre and other arts/media. It goes
from September the 1st to the 15th, and we will be part of it (along with
the Necks, Archie Roach and Ruby Hunter, Paul Kelly, possibly My Friend
the Chocolate Cake, etc etc) - very exciting! And it means we get out of
Australia for the Olympics - woo hoo!
Anyway, we played three songs at the end of the function to officially
open this program. The chair of the Australia Council was there, as was
the Australian Ambassador to Holland and lots of other important people,
including many managers of venues in Amsterdam. They were very enthusiastic,
and we have made some very useful connections today. Apart from that, the
acoustic in the room was fantastic, and we sounded great *grin* if I may
say so... And the room itself was delightful, with dozens of magazines
along the walls, comfy chairs and couches, generally a relaxed and charming
atmosphere.
I've now spent a horrific 3 (THREE) hours in the Internet Cafe (remember this place?! - such great music playing *grin*) so it's time to finish off! I hope you're enjoying these little missives. It's fun to go over what I've been doing with the benefit of hindsight ;)
Keep in touch everyone,
Love Peter.
P.S. I hope there aren't too many typos here - in addition to the length
of time I've been here, it's after 2am! Definitely bedtime.
--
Also found at raven@fourplay.com.au
Peter: http://www.fourplay.com.au/me.html
FourPlay: http://www.fourplay.com.au/
Experimental Electronic: http://www.fourplay.com.au/sound.html